Straightening A Foal

 

I write this for those who are interested in learning more about straightening bent legs on model horses.  Specifically, this is an account of how I straightened out my Stone foal, Hazy Crazy, last August.  Her story falls into the category of showing off my Stone horses while ever so gently, ever so subliminally, complaining about their cost;  the only way I could purchase this foal was because she was damaged goods.  (It also turns out I purchased a far more expensive Stone later, so take my complaints with some salt.)  But this story also tells how I repaired her, to the extent that you would never know she was bent.  I'm absolutely enchanted to have her;  I've always wanted one of these lovely foals.  I was lucky to find her.  Maybe she was lucky to find me. 

See those twisted hooves?

I've coined the phrase, "the Black Art of O.F. Enhancement," to refer to all acts that, technically, change the factory finish or shape, or might change it, while either returning to or enhancing a horse into what you want it to be.  To call this art "Black," reflects a long career in the hobby watching a public mythos grow and grow around the sanctity of Original Finish.  Alter a valuable O. F.?  Sacrilege!  But if you can't explore and play, how will you ever develop your talents?  I have always felt that the freedom to pursue my creative ideas was worth the price of a few plastic horses.  From this background of being able to experiment with repositioning, as it was called during my formative years (1978 - ~2000), has grown the confidence and skill to do what this foal so clearly needed doing.  With the right approach, leg straightening takes about 15 minutes.

I found Hazy at BreyerFest 2024 and paid one hundred dollars for her, a rather high price for a foal for me.  These Stone foals cost anywhere from $139 to $350 and up.  I waited until corn season before attempting her case.  Laugh if you like;  cooking corn on the cob leaves a large pot of hot water, with the added bonus of a small amount of corn oil.

When I first started using corn water for models I was thinking that the oil would provide a bit of gloss and protection for them.  But as it turns out, a good bath would remove the oil, and a good bath is the normal last step of straightening.  Even so, I still prefer the convenience and the recycling of hot water (and the good lighting in the kitchen).  I usually add enough water to bring the level to where it's deep enough to comfortably immerse the part, and adjust the heat so it's nearly steaming but not bubbling.

Leftover silk and bits of corn will do no harm.  I started with the near hind.  The secret is not to dip the leg for longer than about 7 to 10 seconds.  Again and again, I'm dipping it, but never for very long each time;  and never beyond the concerned part:  here, below the hock.  After 4 or 5 dips, with a few seconds between dips, I start testing the plastic with my fingers.

The trick is not to get the water so hot as to cook the paint -- which will turn opaque, flat and whitish -- but still to get it hot enough to partially soften the plastic.  I use my bare hands;  either I have cold hands or my technique achieves non-dangerously-hot plastic.  The skill does have to distinguish between a leg soft enough to move and one that merely bends to pressure.  I have not yet broken a leg by bending it when it was too cold;  but the possibility is always there, especially with a foal.

I think my success is due to simple repetition as much as anything.  Many small tries gives me much more control over the process.  I am coaxing, coaxing, gently bending and squeezing and asking, constantly moving between dipping her in the water and crouching down to stare at her feet from eye level.  This is where a knowledge of anatomy really helps (not to mention that kitchen counter!).  I'm spinning her, shoving her in circles, looking at every possible angle of those legs.  Note above how the front hooves are too close together.  Water all over the counter? -- that means something's going right!

This picture proves I felt the hocks and gaskins needed moving.  Again, the trick is not to leave her too long in, but still get the plastic soft enough to slowly budge it into position.  And, surprise, the thicker the plastic, the more heat it takes to soften.

 The last task is hoof position.

It always amuses me how many showers don't realize their horses' hooves aren't flat on the table.  But it's not always easy to get them all lined up.  I spin her and spin her, looking at all angles from the ground level, stretching a pastern here, shortening an angle there.  The plastic can compress just as it can stretch.  How can I achieve a good-looking stance with the least amount of change to the joint angles and the distance between joints?  with the least heat?!  Below, notice the inward slant of that off hind hoof.  Dip the last inch of that leg into the water for 7 to 10 seconds, until the pastern is soft enough, and bend just the hoof.

Although it's probably unnatural for a foal to be perfectly square, this is what I want.

The final step is using cold water to solidify the plastic once you've got it where you want it.  This step can also be used during the straightening process.

A good toweling and she's done.

Hazy Crazy was, of course, named after the famous song, "Those Lazy, Hazy, Crazy Days of Summer."  But I simply refuse to name any of my horses "Lazy."  Two words is enough.  The halter for this little cutie is the one I rebuilt to be smaller.  As much as I love and respect (and collect!) Jaapi's halters, the foal one I'd bought simply didn't fit.  So I shrank it.  That was difficult, yes,... but we managed.

Happy ending.